Saturday, April 25, 2015

New Website - Life of Dase

No, we haven't stopped traveling, but our website has moved. 

Bookmark our new page: www.lifeofdase.com

Cheers! 


Saturday, March 15, 2014

Nicaragua on a Shoestring

Wake up people, go explore the world!

There are so many unexpected wonders awaiting your senses. When I think back to the weeks I spent backpacking through Nicaragua, I smell the freshly baked focaccia bread in Granada, I feel the waves that jostled us for seven hours across the largest lake in Central America and I see the active volcanoes that towered above me as I floated in the waters surrounding Ometepe Island.

Being in Nicaragua was spectacular, but getting there was a bit of a rough. The plan was to cross from Costa Rica to Nicaragua along the Rio Frio, from the Costa Rican town of Los Chiles. There is one public water taxi that crosses the river into Nicaragua twice a week and only charges $7.00. We were in the right city, on the right day of the week, but after asking 10 different locals we still couldn't pin down the actual time of the ferry's departure. Nonetheless, we needed to get to San Carlos, Nicaragua before 5:00pm to catch our next boat to the volcano covered island, Isla Ometepe. We weren't taking any chances. We paid a few sketchy fees, obtained private boat quotes that ranged from $130 - $15 per person and hopped on the cheapest ride. Crossing into Nicaragua was stunning. Crocodiles lined the banks of the river, tropical birds swooped in front of us to catch fish and we waved to all of the locals who lived along the river. Once in San Carlos, we paid a mysterious $12 fee (that had to be paid in dollars) and finally got our passports stamped - welcome to Nicaragua.


Since we arrived in San Carlos earlier than expected, we had six hours to kill before our next boat departed. We exchanged our Colones for Cordobas, witnessed a motorcycle accident, drank 60 cent beers and had our first taste of Nico food. All in all, we made the best of being stuck in a transit city and concluded that Nico's (Nicaraguan's) cook much better than Tico's (Costa Rican's) and our dollar is worth a whole lot more in Nicaragua.

Our destination for the night was the Isla Ometepe, an island in the center of Lake Nicaragua that is home to two volcanoes. Lake Nicaragua is believed to have been created when a volcanic eruption formed a land barrier that separated the lake from the ocean. The ocean fish found themselves trapped as the salt water slowly turned fresh. Thanks to evolution, Lake Nicaragua is the only freshwater lake containing oceanic animal life - sharks, swordfish, and tarpon.

We boarded the boat and tried to get comfortable, we had a seven hour trip ahead of us and the sun was setting quickly. The first couple of hours were ideal, we watched the sun dip beneath the horizon from comfortable beach chairs with drinks in our hand. But, after the dark set in, the hours seemed to drag on. We reached the island just past midnight and had a quick sleep at a nearby hostel.


The next day we moved to Little Morgan's, a hostel that came with rave recommendations from other travelers. Little Morgan's was great, for one night. Set on the shores of the lake, it was a rustic jungle getaway that attracted travelers from around the world, ready to party. And party we did; after night one, Brendan had suffered a concussion, Steven was bleeding from neck to hip and Alexa had lost a shoe - which we later found was being used as a shot glass in the bar. Gross.

We somehow managed to survive another two nights at Little Morgan's and continued to explore the island. We rented bikes and cruised to the nearby freshwater springs, where we poured rum into our coconuts and sipped the afternoon away under breezy palm trees. Our bikes took us along beautiful beaches where we jumped into the lake and swam beneath the shadows of two volcanoes.


After three days of dirt floors, grungy bathrooms and roaming pigs, we were ready for an escape from Little Morgan's. We hopped on yet another boat and set our sites for Granada.  Unlike the Pirate, Captain Morgan, who sacked the city and all of it's gold multiple times in the 17th century, we were welcomed into lovely Granada with open arms. The colonial city is quite a shock for two sisters living in the jungle. We were suddenly surrounded by restaurants, cafes, shops and bustling street markets. Our plan was to rest up and rejuvenate in Granada for a day or two and then head to the beach, but the allure of city life captivated us for almost a week.

The streets of Granda are filled with colorful architecture and it remains one of the most beautiful cities in Central America. It's history dates back to 1524, making it the oldest Spanish settlement in the Americas. We spent our days walking through historical neighborhoods, savoring the flavors of Nicaragua, learning to roll our own cigars and relaxing at a full service spa that set us back a mere $25. It was a tough decision to leave, but the beaches of San Juan Del Sur beckoned us south.


San Juan Del Sur is known as a popular surf destination for those adventurous enough to discover it's hidden breaks. We weren't quite feeling the adventurous spirit and opted for relaxing on the beach, swimming in the surprisingly cold ocean and hiking to the largest Jesus in Central America.

One rather horrific border crossing later, we found ourselves safe and sound in Costa Rica. Another fourteen-hour bus ride later, we found ourselves back in the serenity of Fila Tigre. As they say, you only hate the road when you're missing home, and after the past few weeks of travel we hated the road - and bus seats. It felt like heaven to be back in our jungle; swatting the same ole mosquitos and  cursing the now beloved toads that croak the night away outside our front door.



Thursday, March 13, 2014

Ramblings of a Nomad

My mind doesn't seem to have a great capacity for personal memories. I can easily recall numbers, facts and information I have read, but it's a struggle to recall my own life experiences. For the sake of remembering this past year, I have been keeping track of the skills I have acquired while living on the road.



Here are the concrete items I have learned over a year of camping in the woods, living in RV's, working on organic farms and traveling through Central America. Some are shockingly useful (setting up a tent in the rain), while others are quite random (drip tape repair). But, I am a big believer in everything happening for a reason, so if the day ever comes that I am forced to repair drip tape to save the world, rest assured, we will all survive. 


  • Dry herbs in the sun 
  • Canning (salsa, green and red tomatoes, pickles) 
  • Bake green tomato bread, carrot bread, jalepeƱo corn muffins 
  • Operate a weed-wacker
  • Hunt for mushrooms (identification, cleaning, cooking, eating)
  • Chop wood for kindling 
  • Properly stack wood, so it doesn't come tumbling down when a cat jumps on top of it
  • Cook meals from scratch for 12 hungry WOOFers 
  • Set up a tent in the rain
  • Build a fire 
  • Use power tools (angle grinder, screwdriver, compression driver)
  • Install metal roofing onto a building 
  • Drip tape repair 
  • Buck up wood
  • Operate a tractor
  • Plant various vegetables 
  • Tend a garlic patch 
  • Clean a chicken coop 
  • Compost 
  • Weed every type of vegetable
  • Work a farmer's market
  • Fence repair
  • Install row cover 
  • Milk a goat
  • Make goat cheese 
  • Mix concrete 
  • Hunt gophers 
  • Thin onions
  • Transplant seedlings 
  • Plow a field with a big ole tractor
  • Empty an RV's waste water
  • Roast chile peppers
  • Basic animal veterinary skills
  • Make lefse 
  • Herd sheep
  • Citrus fruit care 
  • Build a bio-digester 
  • Make tortillas and empanadas from scratch 
  • Improve my Spanish 
  • Plan and teach English classes
  • Plan and teach nutrition classes
  • Bake anything in a toaster oven
  • Distinguish between venomous and non-venomous snakes
  • Debone a chicken
  • Kill enormous spiders
  • Shoo away huge, poisonous toads that hop into my bedroom
  • Milk a cow 
  • Haggle with Costa Rican vendors 
  • Make animals out of pieces of grass
  • Make rings from wire
  • Create coffee bean jewelry 
  • Harvest, dry, roast and grind coffee 
  • Only go slightly crazy with 42 itchy bug bites covering my body
  • Appreciate luke-warm showers, because they are better than ice cold showers
  • Pick fleas off of Gabby 

It's amazing what can be accomplished in only a single year. I have omitted the countless, intangible life lessons that I have acquired while living this nomadic life because many of them are still rolling around in my mind and becoming a part of my core being. I will keep you posted, but I assure you they will only change me for the better. 

 Cheers to lifelong learning! 












Friday, February 28, 2014

My Beautiful Life

Exactly one year ago today I stepped out of the revolving doors of J.P. Morgan for the last time. As with most life changing decisions, I worried that I had made the wrong one and would regret ending my career in finance. But, I have never been happier. Not a day has passed that I haven't looked at my life and known that I made the right decision. Since day one of my yearlong journey, I have been wholeheartedly convinced that I am on the right path.

Today, I find myself sitting in a thatched roof hut in the wild rainforest of Costa Rica. My happiness with life has only grown with each passing day. I have found that without the stress and rush of life in the United States, I find life more beautiful. It is only possible to notice beauty when you take the time to witness and appreciate it's existence. My current, simple life provides ample time to do just that - appreciate the beauty within every moment of my day.

Enjoying the rain after a long, hot hike in the mountains

Living in a 400-person village in the mountains of Costa Rica is the best medicine for appreciating the beauty in life. My days here feel long. At times I have the feeling that time might not be moving at all, and if it is, no one here seems to be tracking it as closely as back home. The beauty is infinite.

I awake each morning when the sun begins to warm my cabina and stretch until I feel ready to meet the bright sunlight that is streaming through my roofless abode. My stomach is usually telling me to eat breakfast the moment I wake up, since I have been sleeping for a solid nine or ten hours, so I saunter out to my jungle kitchen and begin to make breakfast. I make a little hot tea and squeeze a freshly picked lemon into the steaming hot cup. I pick a fresh banana from the tree, add a little farm fresh milk, cinnamon and vanilla to my oatmeal and I have a gourmet breakfast waiting for me to devour.  Yet, there is no need to devour the food in front of me. I am in no rush. I sit and savor every bite. The birds are singing in the trees around me, the pesky chicken keeps trying to get scraps of my food and the neighbor's goat is singing beside the river behind me. Eating meals here is joyful bliss. It is fun to create new meals from the beans and vegetables in the fridge. I'm not sure if it's because the only food I eat is the food I make with my own two hands, but for some reason my meals taste like heaven. The flavors always seem to work perfectly together, everything seems to fall into place with barely any effort.

From left: Homemade pancakes, coconut curry with flatbread, stuffed cucumbers, gallo pinto and plantains

Most days of the week, Alexa and I have afternoon meetings to prepare for, so after breakfast we begin brainstorming new ways to teach nutrition and english classes or better ways of organizing our bio-digester building project. On the days when we don't have meetings, we spend our mornings reading, planning our next adventure, coming up with business ideas or hiking in the mountains. Not a day passes that we do not make our bodies drip with sweat. Working out is no longer an activity that I have to squeeze into my day, it is something I work my day around. If we don't start hiking before the sun gets too hot, we usually do blogilates or yoga in our cabina. I can feel my body, mind and health getting stronger with each day that passes.

We live simply and we feel happy. Our town is small, which means everyone knows who we are and always stops to talk to us as we walk. Community members are frequently inviting us over to try freshly prepared Costa Rican specialties. Last week, Abiana invited us over to try patacones - fried, green plantains that are smashed into patties and served with refried beans. We happily sat in her sunny kitchen and gorged on the first fried food we had eaten in two months. Now, whenever we see her at church or passing in the street, we get hugs and kisses. It's so easy to become part of the Fila Tigre family.


When my days come to an end, there is one particular time each evening, just before the sun sets, when the daylight fades and the color of the sky shines a soft, hazy light onto the earth. No matter where I am or what I am doing, I always stop to enjoy the tranquil feeling of this time of the day. By the time we have finished cooking our dinner, the sun has usually set and we walk from the kitchen back to our cabina under a blanket of stars. Every night I get to stare at the stars above me, without concern for how long I am standing in one place.

The simple life agrees with me. I have time to breath. I have time to ponder the next step in my life.  Although such simplicity may be fleeting, I intend to hold onto this peaceful feeling for eternity. The past year has taught me to slow down, appreciate the beauty in the world and search for happiness within.

Friday, February 14, 2014

Welcome to Fila Tigre

Alexa and I have attended church almost all of our lives. Mom would take us most Sundays, once she managed to drag us out of bed and plop us in the car. At church, we would sit in the pew and not so patiently count down the minutes until we were free to go. Sitting still for an hour was not something we were used to and we were always being told to play quietly with our bag of toys. After attending church in Fila Tigre, Costa Rica this morning, I have a brand new sense of how a church service can feel.


Our host family's church: Fuente de Paz (Bridge of Peace)

Yes, the service lasted over three hours. Yes, Alexa and I still had trouble sitting still during the last hour, but everything else about the service was loud and full of love. Church began around 9:30AM, but people trickled in until just before 10:00AM and not a single judgmental look was passed amongst church members highlighting their tardiness. I imagine the only thought that passed through their minds was excitement that they would have another voice to add to the singing. Not that they needed it, the entire church reverberated with music. Six people played different instruments in the front, one man led the singing, the little girls danced up and down the isles with streamers and the rest of the church swayed back and forth as they belted out the words to every song from memory. In every church service I have been to, the people with good voices sing the loudest and a singer's volume tends to decrease at an equal rate as their skill level. Which means that I usually lip sync or whisper the words. Not so in Fila Tigre, not a single person was shy about their voice, for better or worse. 


Passing babies around, singing songs and sweating! 

After an hour of singing and dancing, the sermon began with a prayer, a few tears and a lot of shouting. By this time, it was nearing in on the warmest part of the day and in a small church, 100 people heat up quickly. This was when a few members walked in with glasses of water for all of the old people that needed to cool off. Everything about the service revolved around it's members. Even though the sermon went on for two hours, it went on regardless of the noise of the church members. Children would get antsy and their parents would send them across the aisle to sit with a friend. Toddlers would start screaming and would be passed around the church until they quieted down. Babies would cry until someone made them laugh or fall asleep. The noise of the children was never an annoyance to anyone, the children were never sent to a quiet room where the parent had to listen to the service over a speaker. Children were expected to be quiet, but everyone knew that they were still just children, so their tears, laughter and screams were met with hugs and kisses.

The entire church was filled with the greatest sense of community that I have ever felt firsthand. It was a powerful and comfortable feeling. One day I hope to be part of a community that radiates with such love and support.



Saturday, February 8, 2014

Walking Down Separate Paths (for 100 days)

As some of you know, Chase and I have decided to pursue slightly different goals over the next few months. Chase will be advancing his career by taking classes at a local college in Minnesota and selling art from his very own studio. I am currently writing to you from Costa Rica, where I am working on implementing a health program for the community of Fila Tigre. 

Chase has diverse artistic interests and is currently enrolled in Art History, Theater Production, Photography and Website Construction at Central Lakes College. With the opportunity to finally have an art space of his own, besides our tiny apartment dining room, he has rented a studio at the Franklin Arts Center. Stop by and see him sometime, he will woo you with his charm and you will likely come away with a one of a kind Chase Vreeland creation. Word spreads fast in a small town and Brainerd is no different, the local news station heard about Chase's talent and interviewed him in his studio last week. It is probably good that I am not in the same town as him right now, between attending school, creating props for the theater and working in his studio, he doesn't have time for much else in his life. With the glories of modern-day technologies, we are able to talk every day and keep up to date on one another's life.

I came down to Costa Rica to pursue an interest in health and food that has been growing over the past year. With the help of my sister, Alexa, who has been a volunteer for the past two years, we will attempt to improve the health of the Fila Tigre community. Fila Tigre is filled with 300 men, women and children who have become like family to Alexa. As her relationship with the community deepened, she heard from many people that diabetes, obesity and hypertension were spreading like wildfire and many were unsure how to stop the destruction. To me, it seemed like a chance to improve the current and future health of Fila Tigre, so I purchased a plane ticket and headed south. 


The bottom room is our home in Costa Rica, we all get excited when Lobo arrives with vegetables

Only a generation ago, Fila Tigre was a remote village in the southern mountains of Costa Rica. Families lived off of what the jungle provided by hunting and gathering the majority of their sustenance. While still remote in comparasion to the rest of Costa Rica, the influx of processed foods due to lower transportation costs, has drastically changed the eating habits of the community. Today, their meals are filled with refined carbohydrates, sugars, and fat. Processed food products are now conveniently available at the local pulperĆ­a, whereas vegetables are expensive and difficult to come by. Currently, vegetables are delivered in the back of a pickup truck by Lobo, who usually makes it to Fila Tigre once time each month. Fila Tigre has rich soil, plenty of water and the knowledge to grow vegetables, but their hillsides are filled with coffee plants. To provide for their families, many have chosen to grow coffee for cash than food for consumption. 

The men spend their days picking coffee or herding cattle through the mountains and the women are confined to cleaning their home and tending the children. Both are equally important, but the confines of a home drastically reduce the activity levels of the women and when combined with an unhealthy diet result in weight gain. With weight gain comes an increased risk for the infamous, non-communacable diseases of diabetes and heart disease. 

Our plan to improve the health of Fila Tigre involves the completion of three projects: 
  1. Teach nutrition classes - stress the importance of eating vegetables every day and explain how sugary drinks, white rice and fatty meat can lead to weight gain. 
  2. Develop regular walking groups - organize leaders in the community who can commit to leading walking groups on a regular basis. 
  3. Build gardens for families - make it possible for families to eat vegetables right out of their own backyard, rather than waiting a month to buy produce. 
Diabetes and hypertension are two life-threatening conditions that are on the rise across Costa Rica. Both genetics and lifestyle influence a person's chances of becoming diabetic or hypertensive and while we cannot control genetics, we do have control over our diet and activity level. With a little education and a lot of hard work, we can decrease the chances of Fila Tigre becoming an unhealthy statistic of a developing nation.


Freshly picked coffee drying in the sun, the women of Fila Tigre learning to grow vegetables


Saturday, January 18, 2014

8 Tips For Finding a WWOOF Farm

Are you itching to experience something in life that makes you feel alive? Are you looking to make a major change - to avoid getting caught up in the 9 to 5 lifestyle? You have the chance. I took a leap of faith last year, quit my job at a prestigious investment firm and began to explore an interest that has always been on the back of my mind: organic farming. 

World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF) is a fantastic way to travel around the world on a budget and learn valuable life skills. Choose from farms in 100+ countries, volunteer your time and in exchange receive a place to stay and delicious meals. Typically, you will have a limited amount of resources and you want your farm experience to be worth your time, energy and money. I have spent the past year wwoofing on farms across North America and have learned exactly how to find a farm that teaches you sustainable agriculture practices, appreciates your hard work, and allows you to explore your new surroundings. 

Plan to spend quite a bit of time researching farms on the WWOOF websites. As you would expect, the best farms tend to fill up fast, so try to contact farms at least two months prior to your scheduled visit. If you just happen to be a procrastinator, like myself, you will find that the best farms are always full - especially when it's three days before you plan to work on a farm. However, WWOOF volunteers are notorious for last minute schedule changes and it is possible to get in with an excellent farm due to a cancellation. 




1. Pick a part of the country to explore - This may be the most difficult decision you
have to make, because once you start researching a country, you are going to want to see it all. The sooner you realize this is impossible on a limited budget, the better. Try to narrow-in on a part of the country that interests you the most, it may be a city that is nearby, a mountain, hiking trails, or historical sites. No matter where you chose to focus your efforts, you will see a side of the country that you would never be able to see if you were simply traveling around the country. You will get to participate in locals-only events: potlucks, concerts, rodeos, markets and small-town pubs. When you know the part of the country you are focusing on, head to the WWOOF website and start exploring farms. 

2. Thoroughly read each farm profile - If you were the proud owner of an organic farm, you too would probably put quite a bit of effort into telling the world about yourself. Appreciate the fact that these farmers have taken time away from growing food to put down a few words for you to read. You will usually have an accurate impression of the farm once you have finished reading and you will either move on to the next profile or begin to write an introduction email. 

3. Contact farms with multiple, positive comments - Think about it, you are working for family owned farms who depend heavily on wwoofers. It is rare to find negative comments, because leaving a negative comment would basically prevent that farm from hosting any more woofers and thus deeply impact their success as a farm. Instead, look for farms with multiple, positive comments that exude satisfaction with the food, work and host. 



4. Email multiple farms - It is easy to get your heart set on one farm, but it is only smart to email multiple farms that meet your criteria. Make it easy on yourself and have an introduction email that you can copy and paste, but make sure that you customize each email to suit each farm. There are usually more wwoofers than positions at each farm, so try to put your best characteristics on display in the initial email. Introduce yourself by giving a paragraph of background information, explain why you want to work at each farm and list the dates you expect to work. 

Once you have found a farm with openings, spend time following up with them and asking a few clarifying questions. You will be spending a significant amount of time working at the farm and you deserve to know about the working and living conditions. 

5. Determine the work schedule - If a farm has hosted wwoofers in the past, they will have a typical schedule that they follow each day - find out what this is before arriving at the farm. While the WWOOF website states that you work 4 - 6 hours per day, I have found that it ends up being more like 6+ hours each day. On the majority of the farms, it was fine to work more than 6 hours because we were rewarded with delicious, home-cooked meals and an educational experience, but there are farms out there that will expect you to work full days and only offer you Walmart purchased sausages in return. 

6. Sleeping arrangements - Most farms will outline sleeping arrangements in their profile, but it cannot hurt to double-check, especially when it is a busy time of year with multiple woofers staying on the property. If you are wwoofing during colder
temperatures, make sure your lodgings include heat and water. This may seem like a given in the winter months, but I have spent a few freezing cold weeks living in an unheated RV where my water-bottle would turn to ice over night as it rested next to my head.

7. Typical meals - Ask how meals are typically prepared
at your prospective farm. I prefer when farms open up their home and let you make your own breakfast and lunch. It can be awkward when they make your meals without any input from you, especially when they put tomatoes and mayo on sandwiches which you have to end up feeding to the goats. Dinners are usually more of a communal affair, which works well when there is a large group of woofers. 

8. Have an open mind - After you have spent some time communicating with potential farms, sit back and ask yourself, which one feels right? The one you select may not have the best accommodations or work schedule, but you cannot figure it all out ahead of time in an email. Take a leap of faith and trust that most people in the world are kind-hearted and want you to be happy and comfortable at their farm. 


Now that you know how to find a farm, get going. Life won't wait for you. You deserve to meet interesting people who challenge you to think beyond your upbringing, you deserve to eat the miracle that is farm fresh food, and you deserve to feel like you are part of a sustainable agriculture movement. World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF) is the answer to the longing you feel to explore organic farming, and the world. 












Friday, January 17, 2014

Lockewood Acres

Our last farm on this six-month journey across North America was Lockewood Acres. Nestled between San Franscisco and Sacramento, Lockewood Acres is a small organic farm home to goats, sheep, heritage chickens, fruits and vegetables.

Lockewood Acres introduced us to the joys and pains of raising goats. Each morning and evening we would milk the goats and in between we would spend as much time as possible feeding them leftover produce, petting their cute little bodies and letting them rub their heads against our legs. The majority of our Thanksgiving Day was spent drinking Bloody Mary's in the goat's pen. I really cannot understate how much we loved the goats.

Noel, Chase, Buttercup, Bliss

One goat in particular, Noel, was a shy, black and white darling who didn't seem to fit in with the rest of the goats. While we were hand feeding the others fresh fruit, Noel would sulk in the back, never quite in reach of the food. At times, we would craft elaborate distractions that would allow us to reach Noel without the others butting in. Yet, she never seemed to want any of the fruits and vegetables that we had to offer. For the first week, we took pity on adorable Noel and fathomed that she must be at the very bottom of the goat totem pole - what other reason could there be for her un-goatlike behavior? 

As the sun was setting one evening, Chase and I entered the pen and set about feeding them dinner. Each day we feed them alfalfa in the morning and oats in the evening, and it is all stored in a garage at the center of their pen. Goats are smart creatures, and the minute we start walking towards the food garage, they all start crowding around, waiting for us to pull up the door, so they can hop onto the bales of food and eat as much as possible before we manage to wrangle them back outside. 

Tonight was different story, from the moment we stepped into the pen, Noel had an evil look in her eye. She wasn't in the back of the herd any longer, she was stomping towards the front and looking right at me. I didn't notice her at first, because I was too consumed with the love that they other goats were giving us, but, in an instant, I was knocked backwards as her head rammed into my leg. I thought she might be playing at first, but she came at me again, this time even harder. I panicked and shouted for Chase, who came running and pulled her back. After we fed everyone, she seemed to be back to her normal, quiet self and we went to bed thinking she must have just had a bad day. 

Climbed to the top of an abandoned radio station tower with a view of both the ocean and the mountains 

Early the next morning, we entered the pen again, but this time I kept Chase by my side. I wasn't about to be attacked by Noel again. She immediately started towards me and head butted me with a greater force than yesterday. This time, Chase witnessed it from the start and we came to the conclusion that not only was Noel crazy, she was jealous. She must have fallen in love with Chase at some point and saw me as a threat to her happiness. Either way, we got out of that pen quick and decided to avoid Noel for the rest of our stay at Lockewood Acres. 

Keeping the citrus trees from freezing with the radiant heat of Christmas lights

Our time at Lockewood Acres ended rather abruptly when we began to feel the itch of a Minnesota Christmas. The nights were getting cold, even in California, and while it was a lovely sight to see Christmas lights wrapped around citrus trees to keep them from freezing, it only increased our desire for snow. After only two weeks, we packed up our car for the last time and headed east. Within two hours, we reached the snow that we were so eagerly anticipating, but this time it covered the Sierra Nevada's with a blizzard that forced us to turn around and head south. We drove across the deserts of California, sped across Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Kansas, Nebraska, and Iowa until we reached our home, Minnesota. We were welcomed with negative 30 degree weather and over three feet of snow. 

We were home and we were happy. 

Saturday, January 11, 2014

California Road Trip: Red Wine and Redwoods

After spending the past two months soaking in the wonders of Oregon, we crossed the border into California. Driving along Highway 199, we were immediately impressed with the state as we were welcomed by the towering Redwood trees of the Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. This park is home to over 45% of California's old growth Redwoods and the last major free flowing river in California. We followed Highway 199 until it ended at the ocean in Crescent City, CA. 


We found a map that basically listed out all of our stops down the coast, but what's Paul doing in California?

We chose to stay off the major highways and continued south on the quiet Highway 1. We were traveling in November, not exactly prime tourist season in Northern California, which meant the roads were clear of tourists and the campgrounds empty. Unfortunately, campground prices remain the same regardless of the  season and at $35/night it was the most we had paid anywhere in the country. Luckily, split between three people, it becomes a bit more reasonable. We chose to stay in the Elk Prairie Campground and were immediately aware of the significance of its name when we came to a sudden halt before we ran into a herd of elk.  



We found a pristine campsite, located at the edge of a rushing river and settled in for a few days. The setting was ideal, but the nights were chilly. Even wearing all of our clothes, hats and mittens, we shivered the night away in our sleeping bags. I awoke in the middle of the first night to the noise of splashing water that sounded like a large animal stomping through the river. I tried to persuade Chase to go check it out but he only kept sleeping. The next night, we heard the noise again as we were sharing our campfire with a few new friends and brought our flashlights over to explore. It turned out to be dozens of King Salmon splashing against the river's current and swimming upstream. Their ancient struggle was magnificent to witness first hand. 

Our days were spent with our heads tilted backwards as we tried to peer to the top of the  Redwood giants. We walked for miles through the old growth forests and never once felt like we had seen enough. They towered above us at over 350ft, they can live for over 2,000 years and their bark is 12 inches thick. Surrounded by such wise, statuesque trees I felt young, small, and naive. The miles seemed to fly by as we hiked through the forest in awe. 




At one point, we found a tree that had fallen years ago and had rotted through from end to end. Alex and Chase, the brave explorers, managed to climb their way through the center, without too much screaming. I struggled behind them, barely breathing as I reached the pitch black center, where I had to feel my way across wet moss and climb up to another level of the tree's core. I crawled the rest of the way, with the tiny light at the end guiding my way out.




After days in the woods, we decided to increase our standard of living and splurge on a few days in wine country.  My handy-dandy California guidebook explained that Napa Valley is the more expensive part of wine country and that Sonoma Valley is reasonable, welcoming and home to a younger crowd. 

Day one in wine country found us driving through Sonoma and stopping at the Kaz Winery for wine and olive oil tasting. Kaz was the first organic winery in Sonoma, and has helped usher in an era of winemaking where almost all the grapes in Sonoma Valley are now organically grown. The tasting was only $5 and included a thorough introduction into the winemaking process. We walked through the vineyards, explored the gardens and wished we owned our own little winery in Sonoma. 




The next day we said a heartfelt goodbye to our good friend, travel companion, and the best musician we know - Alex Deely. He was off to San Francisco to stay with friends before heading home to Maine. We met him at the Zig Zag Mountain Farm, where we shared a house and worked together. We traveled with him down the West coast and we were very reluctant to let him board his bus and wave goodbye. At least we know that the next time we make it to Maine, we will be staying with one particularly great Maine-man. 

Chase and I decided to have a little romantic weekend in Sonoma and booked a cozy cottage at the Glen Ellen Inn. The town of Glen Ellen is located five miles north of Sonoma. It is off of the beaten path enough that prices drop drastically in the off-season and even more during the week. We spent the next couple of days exploring wine country, with stops in the city of Sonoma for a picnic, wine tastings throughout the valley, hiking and relaxing in our beautiful, private cottage - complete with our own personal steam shower, hot tub, fireplace and canopy bed. I wish I could share the entire wine experience with you visually, but somehow we forgot to take a single photo of the weekend. I just blame it on all the free wine tastings we stumbled upon. Our weeks on the road had come to a relaxing end and we were on our way to the next farm, Lockewood Acres. 

Monday, December 16, 2013

Oregon Road Trip: Crater Lake, Umpqua River, Ashland

We set out on the winding Rogue-Umpqua Scenic Byway the next morning and found ourselves easily distracted on the 90-mile trip to Crater Lake. The road traverses alongside the stunning Umpqua River almost the entire way to Crater Lake, which meant that we were driving in a secluded, wilderness dream and could not imagine missing a single drop of the beauty. Our intention to reach Crater Lake in one day was officially squashed as we read about the waterfalls, hot springs and hiking that awaited us along the road up to Crater Lake. 

Toketee Falls beckoned to us and we listened, making our first detour of the trip a mere 50 miles from where we started the morning. We hopped out of the car and hiked on the perfectly maintained trail until we reached the highlight of the hike, the roaring, two tiered Toketee Falls. The falls' first tier drops 40 feet into an upper pool, then crashes another 80 feet down basalt rock into another gorgeous, green-blue pool. 


Toketee Falls on the Umpqua River, Oregon

After feeling the mist of the Toketee Falls, we were eager to soak in the elusive Umpqua Hot Springs. We had read online that it is rather difficult to access, but we thought that together the three of us could figure out the cryptic maps. We read that it was a short, but steep hike up to the hot springs - which perch atop a rocky bluff that drops 200 feet to the rushing Umpqua River below. After circling the area a couple times, we jumped out of the car and started hiking on a trail that seemed to match the descriptions we had read online. An hour and a half of hiking later, we decided we were likely not on the right trail and turned back. The unintended hike may have wasted time, but it did make if feel like we actually deserved a soak in the hot springs. With new determination we found the hidden turn in the road, climbed the steep trail and found ourselves in heaven. 

The cloudy, blue-gray pools line the cliff of the mountain as they descend down to the river. The top pool boasts a temperature of 112 degrees Fahrenheit, which is a bit steamy to soak in for too long. The pool temperatures gradually decrease as you descend the mountain and we found ourselves, like Goldilocks, testing each and every pool until we found the one that was "just right." By the time we left the hot springs, the sun was beginning to set and we needed to find a place to stay the night. 


Umpqua Hot Springs

I have read that the best time of year to visit Crater Lake is from late May to mid-October when all of the roads are open, but we pressed our luck in my little Honda Civic and were rewarded with cheap hotel rooms, zero tourists, and lovely snow. After spending the night in a questionable motel, we found ourselves slowly driving up a snow covered mountain to Crater Lake. At the top, we spent a whopping fifteen, frigid minutes gazing out at the deep-blue water before heading into the gift shop for heat. 

Crater Lake is a caldera lake, which was created by the collapse of the volcano Mount Mazama. Mount Mazama once stood at a little under 12,000 feet, but when it exploded about 7,700 years ago it was reduced to just over 8,000 feet. Left in place of the mountain peak was now a caldera, which filled with rain and snowmelt over the years until it became Crater Lake. Reaching a maximum depth of more than 1,900 feet, Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States and among the deepest in the world. 


Crater Lake National Park

Nestled along the boarder of Oregon and California, lies the friendly town of Ashland, Oregon. As we explored the town, our extreme disappointment in Eugene was suddenly replaced with visions of our future home in Ashland. Home to the renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival, Ashland welcomes over 400,000 visitors each year from February to October to attend plays produced by William Shakespeare. The majority of the plays take place on one of three outdoor stages and the city bustles with tourism. I kept imagining Chase having a solid career in prop design with such a theatrical culture. I imagined myself owning a farm in one of the most fertile parts of our country - where the climate is so mild that they can even grow tropical fruit! 

We ended up staying two nights in Ashland, where I was able to catch up with a friend from my days working for F.H. King at UW-Madison. Vincent is now a professor at Southern Oregon University and just as eager as always to get students interested and passionate about growing food. I had a delicious dinner with his family and noted that if we did move to Ashland, we would actually know someone in our new town. 

After a few busy days of sight seeing and hiking, we were anxious to finally cross the border into sunny California. Next on the agenda: Redwoods and wine country.